Autumn Colour
The defining
characteristics of autumn, for me, are what is all around now. The
vines have turned colour and so have the deciduous trees, about half
the trees in the area:
maples, poplars, lime and plane trees. The shades vary from light
yellow to dark brown and there's even some red, vines of I don't know
which variety. The other major change is the smell of wood smoke,
the smoke spiralling lazily from numerous chimneys. It reminds me
always of Afghanistan, northern India and Kashmir. The Clean Air Act
largely did away with this in England and, anyway, the normal
household fuel years ago was coal or coke. Here wood
stoves are prevalent and, in this area at any rate, seem to have
little affect on air quality. So I can enjoy the smell.
Beaujolais
Nouveau
Beaujolais nouveau
arrived here on the 15th,
as no doubt to many other places, the big celebration being a two-day
junket in Lyon. I know it is traditional to
celebrate it but I find it rather strange that an area so proud of
its Côtes
du Rhone should celebrate a wine from southern Burgundy. I wonder if
they do that in Bordeaux, Burgundy's arch rival?
Anyway,
Patrique and Valérie
at the Bar du Pont took the initiative to arrange a Beaujolais
nouveau evening, making tapas to go
with the wine. I thought the wine was much better than previous
Beaujolais nouveaus I have tasted, with a fuller flavour and longer
after-taste. My earlier experiences had convinced me that the
tradition was a lot of fuss about nothing. It seems that weather
conditions dictated that the wine was long on quality but short on
quantity this year, with a harvest 50% below last year's. It used to
be said in England that more Beaujolais was drunk there than was
produced in Burgundy so that will probably be even more the case this
year. One thing I found out that I didn't know was that 60% of the
Beaujolais produced is drunk as Beaujolais nouveau. That must be
good for the producers'
cash flow.
So,
I spent an enjoyable evening in the Bar du Pont with Daniel, Claudine
and others. Claudine is still annoyed
that I agreed to let the Mairie copy my website but I think I can
convince her that it
frees us to
develop
it in other
interesting
ways.
Gégérines
Gégérines
are apparently a type of very hard squash that grow locally and are
essentially inedible. Inedible to you and me, that is; to the French
they are simply a challenge. I seem to remember remarking before
that the French could probably make an interesting sauce for
cardboard; so it is with gégérines. Claudine has promised me a jar
of gégérine jam, a former local speciality, when
she has finished making it.
Why
it is no longer seen around much is no doubt due to its preparation.
Apparently the squash has to be pulverised and boiled for a couple of
hours four times over before it can be made into jam. To warrant
that amount of effort it must taste good.
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